Dopo le spiagge di Sihanoukville ci siamo spostati alla volta di Phnom Penh, la capitale della Cambogia. La città è molto moderna e vivace mantenendo comunque un autentico flair asiatico. Bagnata dal Mekong e dal Tonle Sap, la città mostra nelle facciate delle case le sue radici dei tempi della colonizzazione francese e sul lungo fiume famiglie e coppiette passeggiano e chiacchierano placidamente. Dappertutto per le strade c’è gente (principalmente guidatori di tuc tuc) che ti offre qualsiasi tipo di droga tu possa volere, quindi tra inviti per un passaggio in tuc tuc e offerte per comprare qualcosa da fumare, riuscire a chiacchierare tra di noi senza dover dire ogni tre secondi “no grazie” è praticamente impossibile. Phnom Penh, così come Bangkok, sembra essere molto aperta dal punto di vista sessuale e come a Bangkok non mancano interi quartieri con bordelli uno dietro l’altro e belle (o meno belle) donne che invitano i passanti a trascorrere un po’ di tempo con loro. Non è inusuale neanche vedere in continuazione turisti “bianchi”, anche abbastanza in là con l’età, andare in giro con ragazze che potrebbero essere le loro nipoti…non possiamo certo dire che sia uno spettacolo piacevole ma speriamo che almeno quelle siano maggiorenni visto che abbiamo letto che un grande problema in Cambogia è lo sfruttamento a fini sessuali di bambini.
In ogni caso la nostra visita a Phnom Penh si è concentrata piuttosto sul lato storico e sul tragico passato della Cambogia degli anni ’70, quando dal 1975 al 1979 gli Khmer Rossi hanno preso il potere, costretto tutti gli abitanti delle città a trasferirsi nelle campagne ai lavori forzati e ucciso tra i 2 e i 4 milioni di cambogiani (su una popolazione di 7-8 milioni). Abbiamo visitato i cosiddetti Killing Fields e la spaventosa scuola-prigione S-21, dove rimangono testimonianze delle atrocità commesse dagli Khmer Rossi verso i loro stessi connazionali. In breve, la loro ideologia si basava su una società puramente rurale, per cui bastava essere un insegnante o un dottore per essere torturato e ammazzato – in realtà bastava molto meno…bastava portare gli occhiali da vista…
Ma forse la cosa più assurda di tutte (anche se di cose assurde in questo pezzo di storia ce ne sono molte) è stato apprendere che il governo degli Khmer Rossi ha continuato ad essere riconosciuto per molto tempo dalle più grandi nazioni a livello mondiale anche dopo che i vietnamiti hanno liberato la Cambogia da questa morsa mortale, quindi anche dopo che il mondo intero era venuto a sapere di quello che era avvenuto in quei 3 anni e 8 mesi di fame, lavori forzati, torture e uccisioni di massa…
Visitare i campi di uccisione, vedere le migliaia di foto delle persone ammazzate e ascoltare i racconti dei pochi sopravvissuti non è stato certamente facile, ma abbiamo avuto l’opportunità di imparare un pezzo di storia molto molto triste di cui non si studia molto e di cui invece si dovrebbe parlare tanto per evitare che possa succedere ancora…purtroppo però si parla troppo poco anche di tanti altri genocidi, anche molto attuali. È triste vedere con quanta facilità il mondo chiuda gli occhi e dimentichi…
(come potete immaginare non eravamo in vena di fare foto in questi luoghi di interesse)
After the beaches of Sihanoukville we moved to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. The city is very modern and lively, still maintaining a genuine Asian flair. Wet by the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers, the city shows in the façades of the houses its roots of the times of French colonization and along the river families and couples walk around and chatter placidly. Everywhere in the streets there are people (mostly tuc tuc drivers) who offers you any kind of drugs you may want, so between invitations for a tuc tuc ride and offers to buy something to smoke, being able to chat between us without having to say every three seconds “no thanks” is practically impossible. Phnom Penh, as well as Bangkok, seems to be very open from the sexual point of view and as in Bangkok, there are plenty of brothels, and beautiful (or less beautiful) women invite passers-by to spend some time with them. It is also not unusual to see “white” tourists, even quite aged, going around with girls who might be their grandchildren … we cannot say it’s a nice show but we hope that at least they are full aged given that we have read that a big problem in Cambodia is the exploitation of children for sexual purposes.
In any case, our visit of Phnom Penh focused rather on the historical side and on the tragic past of Cambodia in the 1970s, when from 1975 to 1979 the Khmer Rouge took power, forced all city residents to move to the countryside for forced labour and killed between 2 and 4 million Cambodians (on a population of 7-8 millions). We visited the so-called Killing Fields and the scary S-21 school-prison, which testimonies the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge to their fellow citizens. In short, their ideology was based on a purely rural society, so it was enough to be a teacher or a doctor to be tortured and killed – in fact much less was enough to be killed…wearing glasses was already a good enough reason to be killed…
But perhaps the most absurd thing of all (though there are many absurd things in this piece of history) has been to learn that the Khmer Rouge government has continued to be recognized for a long time by the world’s largest nations even after the Vietnamese freed Cambodia from this deadly grip, so even after the whole world had come to know what had happened in those 3 years and 8 months of hunger, forced labour, torture and mass murders…
Visiting the Killing Fields, seeing the thousands of photos of the murdered people and listening to the stories of the few survivors was certainly not easy. But we had the opportunity to learn a very sad piece of history, which is not studied a lot but of which we should talk much in order to avoid such things happening again… unfortunately, however, too little is said about many genocides, even very recent ones. It is sad to see how easily the world closes its eyes and forgets…
(As you can imagine we were not in the mood to take pictures in these places of interest)
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